You’ll save a lot of walking time if you start by placing the stringers in pairs along the length of the fence (a wheelbarrow was used to carry the planks in this project).

You put the stringer like this:

  • Bring it to the uprights at the right height and mark each end for cutting.
  • Trim the ends, then toenails (nail diagonally) to the posts at each end, holding the ends at the correct height.

To do this quickly, easily, and accurately, you need to use a pair of 2×4 blocks and a pair of 38 inches—spacer boards of 1Ă—6. Attach them to the posts to find the stringers and hold them for nailing.

The 2×4 blocks hold the bottom stringer first for marking and then for the feet. The 1×6 spacers position the top stringer the exact distance above the bottom stringer and then hold it in place to avoid hurting the toe.

Temporarily attached 2X4 blocks hold the bottom stringer while marking it to trim the ends. They also hold the stringer in place so you can nail it down without a helper.

If you’ve ever done this, then you know that the problem with a toenail is that the board moves when you nail it. Blocks and spacer boards will keep your stringers in the right place.

Attach the stringers to the toes with three 10d galvanized nails at each end, centering the stringer on the post. The bottom stringer should have two nails on the side and one on the top edge. The top stringer should get two nails on the edges and one on the side. When nailing, do it on the side where the fence boards will be attached to hide the nails. If you have deformed stringers, use them from the bottom instead of the top.

Nail the stringers to the posts with galvanized nails. Spacer boards and 2×4 blocks prevent the stringers from moving nailed.

Spacer boards hold the top stringer for both marking end cuts and nailing. They also keep the upper and lower stringers parallel.

Nail on the fence board

And now the most interesting! Layout the fence boards along the fence like you did the stringers and started nailing them down. Again, the fixture will allow this part of the project to be completed quickly and accurately, ensuring that the tops of all fence boards are at the correct height above the top stringer.

Nail the fence boards with a jig to make sure the tops are parallel to the top stringer. Keep the boards upright while you nail them.

Start with one stud and nail the boards to the top stringer with two 7d galvanized nails. The fixture ensures that each board is at the correct height. Thus, make all the boards between the two pillars. If the gap left on the second stud is uniform from top to bottom, go back and nail the boards to the bottom stringer.

If the gap at the end is 3 inches wide or more, just cut the last board to fit.

Fill in the gap left at the end of the section of fencing boards by cutting the last one.

If the gap is 1 to 3 inches wide, cut the last two boards. If the gap is less than an inch, remove a few boards and leave a small gap between them when you nail them again.

After all the boards are nailed, mark the curved cuts that give the fence a scalloped look. For each post-to-post section, tie three nails, two on the posts just at the tops of the boards and another in the middle of the fencing section, 6 inches below the other nails.

Stripe 1/4 inch. Fiberboard or plywood, bent between these nails, forms a smooth curve along which you can trace the cut line.

Outline the curves at the top of the fence boards using a thin 1/4″ thick strip. Hardboard bent between three nails.

Cut the curve with a jigsaw, finish the end of the cut with a copy saw if necessary, and smooth the cut edge of the boards with a rasp.

Trim the curves with a jigsaw, finishing the ends with a copy saw if necessary. Smooth the cut ends of the boards with a rasp.

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